Applewood

What an amazing transformation the space at 501 11th Street has undergone! Formerly a struggling open-mike bar showcasing dangerously off-key singers, it is now a charming restaurant that manages to be both sophisticated and cozy at the same time. Just a bit off of Park Slope's 7th Avenue, Applewood embodies all of brownstone Brooklyn's charm while providing a wonderful dining experience.

Various pumpkins decorate the entrance and a real fireplace warms up the room. As you enter, you will see wooden shelves featuring jars of homemade spicy peach jam and tomato basil sauce ($5 each). (You will probably also see the affable owners holding their 10-day-old infant. So adorable is this baby that you might be distracted from the menu. But don't worry, the promise of ricotta dumplings with braised pork shoulder will soon reclaim your attention.)

My friend and I began our meal with reasonably-priced Dom Martinho red wine and sliced baguettes with three spreads: roasted garlic puree, French butter and delectable fig jam. We lingered over the bread and wine for a little while because the menu listed so many attractive options. I had a craving for root vegetables and initially wanted the rutabaga soup, but then I saw the potato and root vegetable "pave" with black peppercorn-goat cheese fondue on the entrée list. My companion was rather disappointed to find that the signature duck in applewood-smoked bacon sauce was unavailable.

As you can imagine, we solved these dilemmas in the most delicious way possible. Our shared appetizer was a light, astringent ceviche spiced up with toasted coriander seeds and drizzled with chili oil and avocado mousse. Then, deprived of the duck, my companion opted for the "tenderest ever" grass-fed lamb on a bed of creamy polenta which was encircled with dollops of black olive sauce. I received my allotment of root vegetables in the "pave", which was a kind of sliced root vegetable napoleon. Dipping the potatoes and rutabagas into the tangy goat cheese fondue was a sumptuous experience.

As the temperature drops, it's time for comfort carbohydrates, and dessert at Applewood is a great opportunity to indulge in them! My friend's flourless chocolate cake was among the best I've ever tasted; served with a side of Earl Grey ice cream and topped with real whipped cream, the cake was more like a warm souffle. Each gooey mouthful was a tidal wave of chocolate flavor. I ended up eating half of the cake, even though I had ordered the spiced hot chocolate and homemade Oreos. Once you try this hot chocolate, you will never feel the same about mulled apple cider. You may just crave hot chocolate from now on! (My friend pronounced the beverage "Christmas in a cup.") The accompanying Oreos were small but deceptively rich with a buttercream filling.

Intriguing fennel meringues completed our meal, and then we reluctantly stepped out of the dream back onto the street.

Applewood: 501 11th St., Brooklyn. (718) 768-2044

Zaitzeff

Hungry as can be, I took stock of the dreary dining options along Nassau Street. To my right, there was a Blimpie's, and further down, a Wendy's. Sighing, I turned to my left and saw… a small miracle: Zaitzeff.

Zaitzeff is a burger place that cares! It does the Burger Joint in Le Parker Meridien one better, and serves up patties of organic meatloaf, Kobe beef, and even tuna steak in addition to the regular sirloin. Each burger is lovingly set upon a Portuguese muffin and topped with ripe red tomatoes, horseradish cream, and (if you wish) hefty slices of avocado, grilled onions and cheese.

The sandwiches are quite substantial, but if you must eat further (as I do), there are mixed green salads and heaps of sweet potato and russet French fries. And, when by the cash register, don't overlook the plates piled high with housemade cookies, muffins and brownies. (Some of the brownies are cut larger than others; I left you the biggest one.)

One final tip: try to get to Zaitzeff before the lunch crush; as word spreads around the area, large companies are increasingly ordering 40 burgers at a time!

Zaitzeff: 72 Nassau St., (212) 571-7272.

Kalustyan's Masala Café

If you're wandering around Curry Hill in search of some chana masala, you might be sidetracked by the orange lights of Kalustyan's Masala Café. Although you won't find your beloved North Indian favorites there, you will experience a magical meal of exotic spices and unusual flavors. (And you may have many questions for the waiters regarding the ingredients!)

Last night, my companion and I pounced upon the last table for two. Soon, we were tearing apart a puffy cheddar kulcha bread with gusto. We were quite hungry, as we'd been deliberating over where to eat for a little while. Our boldly flavored appetizers announced the chef's gutsy tastes: a bright pink tuna carpaccio, sprinkled with spicy edamame, was accented with anchovies, and thinly sliced Long Island duck was served with sweet poached figs.

Entrees showcased a pan-Asian flair; I noticed a congee on the menu as well as a Persian-influenced lobster preparation. My companion's monkfish entrée consisted of two generous hunks of cornmeal-crusted fish on a bed of bok choy. I myself enjoyed an entrée that I'm sure I will be returning to on cool fall nights: a hotpot of eggplant and caramelized onion on a bed of lemon rice, topped off with jicama slices and crunchy lentils. Cumin salt was a fragrant condiment.

Although I usually indulge in life-enhancing chocolate for dessert, I decided not to order the malted chocolate crème brulee in favor of the caramel kulfi in a spiced apple Cointreau soup. This dessert was perhaps my only regret of the evening, as the cone of ice milk was frozen solid and impossible to eat with a spoon. Next time, I will indulge in the creme brulee, or maybe venture over to the nearby Kalustyan's Market for 142 pastries, sweets and cookies.

Kalustyan's Masala Café: 115 Lexington Ave., (212) 686-5400.